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CrossTips

 

On this page I'll add a running series of tips that have helped me to become successful that I've absorbed from those wiser and more experienced than me. By no means am I claiming to have the final word and I welcome all feedback. The way I see it: if you get faster, I'll have to get faster to beat you! If you're already super fast then disregard...

Tubeless Tubulars for Cross 
I'm anotherBuild your own PVC Barriers - for cheap!title

No, tubeless tubulars are not a joke or an oxymoron. 

 

Both Tufo and Clement (manufactured by Tufo) make tubeless tubulars for cyclocross. This means that unlike most tubular tires, tubes are not sewn in to the tubular casing. In short, this means lowered likelihood for pinch flats and punctures. You don't have to treat the sidewalls, you can run sealant. In rocky cross races of the southwest where goat heads are notorious, tubeless tubulars are a must.

 

Let's not talk about not running tubulars. Don't go there. 

PVC is cheap. A hacksaw is cheap. Build  your own portable cross barriers to take to the park and practice dismounts, jumping, lawn jenga. 

 

Dimensions: Using 1/2 inch pvc

4x75" barrier 'tops' + 8x53" barrier legs + 4 triple 90degree corner joints (to connect 2 legs to 1 'top') + 2 middle joints to connect 2 'tops' at the center. 

 

The middle joints allow for easy breakdown and storage in a backpack to be ridden to your cross training ground. These set up at the UCI maximum height of 40cm.

 

Email me for more detailed instructions. 

Openers (the day-before-the-race workout)
Pedals. I like Candy. I'm another title

Oddly enough, maybe the most important training ride you'll do all week. 

 

I do roughly 2 hours with 20-30 minutes at tempo, 1-2 sprints, and (most importantly) two 3-minute VO2 max efforts in the upper portion of my VO2 zone. I leave about 2-3 minutes to rest between these efforts. 

 

If I'm time-crunched I can get these efforts in within a 45 minute ride. This could even be done on the trainer. 

 

The V02 max efforts are the most important, because they have the effect of 'opening' you up for hard efforts the next day, but without coming away from your openers ride too taxed or tired. Do these and tomorrow (race day) your body will not be 'shocked' by the violence of the 'cross race efforts. 

When it comes to pedals, the crankbrothers candy pedals are awesome for 'cross. 

 

Crankbrothers egg beaters are the ultimate in mud shedding. Super for a sport that is known to get down and dirty. But when remounting, dismounting with only one foot clipped in, and getting your ultra-quick cross starts dialed - the candy pedals can't be beat. 

 

The added platform is plenty enough surface to stabilize your foot on the pedal even before getting fully clipped in. This means that when sprinting off the start line or sprinting out of the barriers after remounting, your foot will be plenty comfortable for several pedal strokes before even clipping in. A little bit of room for error is never a bad thing.

 

Lastly, if you're having trouble getting in and out of your pedal and it's not due to lack of practice, you might consider either shimming your cleat so that it sticks out more from the bottom of your shoe, or modifying (grinding) the cleats on your shoe on either side of the pedal. This can make for much easier entry. Just be careful not to grind too much. 

 

Eating to not get cross gut

If you've never had cross gut then you're probably doing something right. If you've had it, then you know how debilitating it can be and that it should be avoided at all costs. 

 

The most simple rule of thumb in eating to race: finish your last meal 3 hours before your start. Avoid eating anything too heavy (like a bison burger) and stick to something that's not going to upset your stomach (note to self: avoid spicy ramen). 

 

An hour before your race, top off your fuel with something like a pack of Honey Stinger Chews, a Harmony bar, or a pro bar Fuel Bar. Some guys like to do a little something while waiting at the line for the start, like a gel or something quickly digestible. 

 

How to Eat.  From The Feed

 

 

Keep checking back! More to come....

Tubeless Tubulars for Cross 

A tale of 2 bikes. Setting up the A and B bikes

After several years of experimenting with various A and B bike setups, I've come to the conclusion that my preference is having two A- bikes (or B+ bikes) rather than having an A and a B bike. What I mean is that, rather than investing in a superior A bike, say a carbon frame and carbon wheels, and then having an inferior B bike, say an aluminum frame and training weight wheels, the ideal scenario is rather to have two bikes that you can afford to set up identically. 

 

Here's my prescription:

1) buy 2 frames you like, carbon or aluminum, doesn't matter. Aluminum is easier (less stress) to travel with, will take an impact during a crash, and is light (in modern alum frames), so is a viable option. 

2) Buy 2 pairs of wheels that are race worthy (sub 1450 grams) but also that you're comfortable training on. Or have a 3rd designated beater/training pair. I highly, highly recommend 2 pairs of HiFi Mixmaster Alum Tubs. 2 pairs of these are going to cost you less than 1 pair of carbon wheels. 

3) Set the other components up identically. Same alum bars, seatpost, saddles, and tires. Or whatever you can afford, if you're married to carbon.

 

When you hit the pits, whether because of mother nature (mud/ice), a flat, or a mechanical, you want that B bike to be familiar and not inferior to your A bike. If you're coming back from a mechanical or a flat, the last thing you need is the morale knock of being on an inferior machine.

And get your PSI dialed between the two bikes using a digital pressure gauge.  Getting accustomed to your A bike with 22 psi and then jumping on a B bike with 26 and taking that hot corner at the same speed is going to spell disaster. 

 

 

"15 seconds til start" - cross starts

Cyclocross requires many unique skills and thereby requires some highly specific practice. Starting the race - the sprint from the gun - is no exception.

 

Practice this in the park, in the alley, on a gravel driveway. All you need is about 200 meters in which to stop, prepare yourself, and explode!

 

1) One foot on the ground, one foot clipped into the forward (3 o'clock) pedal. I prefer my leading foot, my right foot, to be out and my left foot in. The right foot is slightly more coordinated for getting in the pedal or balancing on the candy platform.

2) Be in your easiest cog in the back and your largest in the front, cross gearing is OK for this short period of time. For example, with a double chainring you might be in the 46 in the front and the 25 (or 28, 32 etc..) in the back. 

3) Rotate (using your hand) the pedal that is not clipped in so that the platform and entry point are accessible, i.e. parallel to the ground. So you're not fumbling around for it once the gun goes off. 

4) Choose whether you prefer your butt in the saddle at the start or just in front. I prefer just in front, but I'm in the minority. On the other hand - check out Lars Van Der Haar. Quickest starter, probably in the world. Butt in front. 

5) When you hear that 15 second warning, ready your fast twitch muscles (Lars and I do a little hunch and bend the elbows), take a deep breath. And explode!

6) Remember, don't be afraid to take a few pedal strokes even if you're not clipped in. This can be the difference between top 5 and last 5 into corner #1!

 

 

 

The 1by system. Functional, lighter, cleaner. 

Wolftooth Drop-Stop Chainrings! So rad. Made in Minnesota!  

 

Here's the scoop:

 

Running 2by setups, meaning two chainrings attached to your crankset operated by a front derailleur, is so 2012. The gear ranges that you can achieve with a 10 or 11 speed cassette and a single front chainring are more than sufficient for 'cross. Removing your 2nd chainring, your front derailleur, the cable and housing that is attached to it, and possibly your front shifting lever/internal mechanism is going to lighten your bike (my measure is 1/2lb), make your machine more simple and less prone to chain suck, and also just look really clean and cool. Remember fixies?  

 

What you need: 

A wolftooth drop-stop chainring (I run a 40 or a 42 tooth with an 11-28)

A "clutch-style" rear derailleur (Any SRAM 10 speed MTB der (Sram X9 for example) or Force CX1which works 10 and 11 speed with Sram levers)

 

That's it! 

 

Again, you can remove your front der, chainguard, front der cable, front der housing, and your internal shifting mechanism (if you so choose - see here)

 

Lastly, be sure to shorten the length of your chain. Sram recommends removing the chain from the rear der pulleys, placing it on your new wolftooth drop-stop chainring, and on your largest rear cassette cog. Then add two links plus your quick link and you're good to go. 

 

If you're running Shimano and want to go with a 1by setup, email me with questions. If you're not sure about how many teeth to run, what 'BCD' you need to order or any other questions, feel free to email. 

 

 

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